Items needed for the job include a Phillips head or flat head screwdriver,
small wrenches, and some of the spray lubes I mentioned earlier,
which is only used for cleaning out the reel, super lube grease, “3
in one” oil, brushes and paper towels. A box or tray
is needed to keep your parts in order when you start to take the
reel apart. Take the handle and the spool off of the reel. Different
reels are disassembled in different ways. Some you must first
take the rotor off to get the side plate off. The rotor is
the part on the front of the reel that the bail wire is attached
to.
Pull the spool ratchet and small washers off of the shaft, use your
wrench to unscrew the nut and take the rotor off. After the
rotor is off, you should be able to see the anti-reverse mechanism,
whether it be the dog type or the instant A/R unit that I talked
about before. If it is the “Dog” type, you can
lube it, but if it’s the instant A/R unit, do NOT lube or oil
it. Some of the manufacturers will have a warning on the unit
about NOT lubing them. What the lube does is allow the sleeve
to slip inside of the one way bearings, not letting the A/R to function
properly. You can clean the unit up with a paper towel and
it will work fine.
To get to the “innards” of the reel, take the side plate
off by removing three or four screws. Some reels have a small
cover on the lower rear and bottom of the reel, usually two small
screws hold that on. After the plate is off, remove the screws
that hold the shaft in the reel, pull the shaft out of the front
of the reel, while remembering to keep parts in order as you go. Take
the drive gear and oscillator gear out of the reel and use the lube
to clean the old grease off of the gears and out of the reel. Some
reels may have a worm gear instead of an oscillator gear to allow
the spool to move in and out to lay the line on the spool evenly. If
there are bearings in the reel, they will usually be on the top and
bottom of the drive gear. Remove them and if they are in good
shape, a drop of oil should keep them working. Another bearing
can be found on the pinion gear, under the anti-reverse unit and
can be removed and lubed while working on the anti-reverse.
Once the old grease has been removed, use your brush to apply some
super lube or light grease to the gear teeth. Don’t overdo
it. A little grease can go a long way. Once you have
greased the reel, reassemble the reel in the reverse way you took
it apart. After you get the rotor back on the reel, unscrew
the bail where it connects to the bail arm to lube the line roller. Apply
some oil or grease to make sure the roller is moving freely.
Drags are very important to your success in catching fish. Some
are a dry drag and some are a lubricated system. Make sure
you know what type you have before you work on yours. Usually
drags are a combination of metal, fiber, metal, fiber type of set
up. Keep them in sequence and you’ll be alright. For
the lubricated type drag system, I like to use the super lube grease
to keep the fiber washers from drying out. No matter whether
it be a Deep Sea, Spinning, Bait Caster or Fly reel, a little lube
can keep your handles and moving parts moving freely. On reels
that have a level wind, some oil on the worm gear will help keep
them from failing.
This information is based more on tackle used in a “salt water” environment,
than in freshwater. Although care is still needed to maintain
your equipment in freshwater, use in Saltwater will have a far more
corrosive and damaging effect on your equipment.
RODS:
Good rod care can be as simple as just a visual inspection of the
rod. Rods have no moving or working parts, other than the hood
on the reel seat and the roller on Offshore rods. Problems
start when the reels are left on the rods, especially after being
used in saltwater. Ideally, rods like reels should be washed
after each fishing trip. For good cleaning, remove the reel
from the rod, scrub with a light brush, areas around the guides,
guide feet and the reel seat. To keep the reel seat working,
screw the reel seat from one end to the other. Scrub the threads
and lightly oil before putting the reel back on the rod.
Cork and foam handles can be cleaned and brightened up easily. To
restore a cork handle to its original light color, sand with a fine
sandpaper or extra fine grade paper. Using a heavier paper
will only roughen the finish or remove the cork. Foam handles
can be restored by using a medium or course paper. To be safe,
experiment on a small section of cork or foam to see which grade
of sand paper will do the best job.
END